Posted on January 21, 2010.
A Dress To Go With Your Bag
All knowledges that the incidental lucrative and perfume lines stamped with a name of the designer supports the ready one to international- the industry of wear but, to last week the collections of Paris, this message was hammered to the house to the point of no return. Pile up all but the kitchen sink on to a framework of the model svelte - the shoes, the bag, the belt, the sun glasses - plastering then the batch with the logo to the point that the clothing were themselves all but obscured of the view is what does not fashion needs now.
Valentino did go out a bag to hand after another. Louis Vuitton added the eyeshades of monogrammed, the baseball puts a ceiling on and even the umbrella protections to his already in a predominant way range of incidental one taken. The logo of Dior of Christian was return with a blow; the house proposed also a new bag to hand, a pair of boots and a scarf characters for the season. Of qu'a-t-il importance that the last looked at more as classical Hermes? The incidental ones of Celine appeared to hail Brobdingnag: bigger, better, and well more show-off than never beforehand.
To do the more uncomfortable questions always, the first season of Paris for the next seemed millennium, of time in time, therefore hung up on the last years seventy early years eighty as to lack the inspiration completely. This was not only apparent in the ubiquitousness of aforementioned logo, but also in the excessive media coverage no one of flesh, the outline of disco diva, the predominance of plate and the predominance in now of heels of murderer everywhere.
There was, fortunately, the exceptions to the rule. Rei Kawakubo of Com ds Garcons was on typically innovative - if of time in also time typically opaque - the form. The models, their hair teased in the crowns of Englishwomen, their clothed feet in the pointed slippers pushing of the pulverizations of leaves, resembled the fairy princesses for the 21st century. There was more than a key of the girl of Lautrec of Toulouse destroys: crumpled collars and underskirts also Paul Smith, Abercrombie and Fitch, dsquared that looked at as themselves they had been done the paper credpon were as pretty as a picture, a final transparent fabrics and a narrow outline and feminine effrontedment.
The protected com Junya Watanabe proposed the more good offering of his career if removed. This was the two an exercise in the advancement technological that worries about the Japanese designers - all fabrics recently were developed for the spectacle and waterproof - and charming everywhere. To the tensions of a rotten jar of Carpenter of Karen, and the rain shower that has fallen in waterfall of the exposed pipes running the link length, the models took out in clean, the dresses of change of ANNEES SIXTY STYLE and the too big scarves, just like to adapt lean with just enough lengthening to do them a pleasure to carry. An extraordinary gifted craftsman, Watanabe incorporates easily return- the piles and the caps in the dresses, the capes in the skirts and the bags to hand in the jackets, all in a manner that never seems overworked.
Yohji Yamamoto, as always, took out on a member idiosyncratique. His was a masterclass in to adapt. The well rolled jackets did in interface nailing them points boasted tracing darts and sewings. These appeared soft but never, associated sick with the skirts in bombastic indians - completely the penalties the more dazzling in the method history. Towards the spectacle end, the designer relaxed his message and did go out of the thirties- inspired the cocktail processes in the liquid satin. Molded to the body in a canvas of complex sewings, these were, completely simply, sublimate. Oh, and the incidental only expositions were the feather parasols that will do, useless to say, never to enter in the production of widescale. Yamamoto more raisonablement- evaluated the second line, Black Yohji, its incidental ones of Ysaac and money- turning perfumes continue to facilitate his silent principal line and without the brass band, and, the most important one, without never to compromise clothing integrity.
The appointment of Margiela of Martin as the designer-in-the boss to Hermes, one of the bigger statute edtiqua¨te of all, was done without more than two years of brass band there is. His collection for the label was, again, equally minimized - the clothing for the women that spend their days roaming the French landscape with not a care or a bag of Kelly in the world, dressed in the clothing that whisper the luxury instead of him screams. There was the perfect honey of and/or of sweater of cashmere colored the coat, one in a manner irreproachable pair of cut of pants and just the pair of espadrilles - in leather more soft, the old not dirty canevas - to see the customer of Hermes by the summer. Margiela shows this collection on the women of all ages, sure in the knowledge that Hermes is not very probable of never to inspire a youthquake. It looked at so better for him.
The own line of the designer was in the more ambitious conception, but not less very competent. The jackets and the too big coats, concerned the skirts of equally voluminous cotton and the sweatshirts did to refresh view, surrounded as they were by the sea of bikinis of itsy-bitsy and of skirts that grazed scarcely the thigh on the tracks less than friendly women. These can regulate the flash bulbs jumping, but to execute the small other function that that. Come the spring, the biggest designer of Belgium collection will do without any doubts is available in the smallest sizes for those that rather would not be flooded by their clothing for the good of an argument, although a politically correct the one.